ROBERT PARKER Wine Advocate (Antonio Galloni)

2005 Conti - Boca   90 pts  The 2005 Boca Il Rosso delle Donne offers up dusty red cherries, dried flowers, sweet herbs and minerals on a medium-bodied, nicely articulated frame. This shows wonderful delineation and nuance, not to mention impeccable overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.

The reds of Northern Piedmont remain insiders’ wines, but the finest bottles from these tiny appellations merit considerable attention. I came away very impressed with the wines I tasted from Conti. I also sampled a number of older vintages, the best of which are reviewed here. All of these wines are 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina and 10% Uva Rara, the traditional blend in these parts.

2004 - Conti Boca    92 pts  The 2004 Boca Il Rosso delle Donne shimmers on the palate with layers of fruit, mineral, and herbs. Stylistically the 2004 is a much more expansive, generous wine than the 2005, with layers of fruit that radiate with notable energy through to the mineral-laced finish. This fresh, vibrant and impeccably pure wine is a jewel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.

1990 Conti - Boca    92 pts   The 1990 Boca is an eye-opening wine for its freshness and superb sense of harmony. The expressive regional and varietal character shows the more opulent, rich side of its personality in this sexy red. The 1990 possesses an extra degree of plumpness that is quite welcome in this appellation, where wines so often come across as herbal, lean and/or vegetal. A melange of tar, grilled herbs, dried flowers and tar lingers on the finish. Another decade of fine drinking seems a safe bet. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.

1985 Conti - Boca   90 pts   The 1985 Boca is stylistically similar to the 1990 but with a touch less depth and freshness, neither of which is surprising given the wine’s age. The fruit has begun to fade, revealing tannins that will take on an increasingly greater role in the wine’s balance. The 1985 is best enjoyed over the next two to three years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.

1984 Conti - Boca   89 pts   The 1984 Boca is an intriguing, haunting wine graced with layers of delicate, perfumed fruit. Tar, leather, spices and mountain herbs waft from this somewhat frail yet compelling red. This is another beautiful wine from Conti, but it needs to be enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012.